The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by establishing long-term, productive farming plots inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on

Craig Church
Craig Church

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